There are so many châteaux to visit in the Loire Valley that it is only reasonable to stay for a spell in this lovely part of France. One of our favorite places to stay is along the widest stretch of the Loire River in the small town of Amboise at the impeccable Le Vieux Manoir. It is run by Gloria and Bob Belknap who pulled up stakes in the U.S. to live their dream of running a bed-and-breakfast in France. Gloria graduated from La Verenne Culinary school in Paris in 1974 and they honed their considerable hosting skills running a luxury B&B in Boston for 15 years before finding the perfect place to open one in France. As is true of most B&Bs, it is the hosts who are the main reason for returning. However, in this case there is also the allure of charming accommodations and gardens.
The 18th century manor house, which was once in its colorful history, a convent, was transformed by the Belknaps into a luxurious and comfortable mansion with every possible detail perfected. Gloria cooks like Julia Child, decorates and presents meals better than Martha Stewart and entertains like a stand-up comedienne. But this is a blog about gardens so I will try to stay on track.
The manoir is situated off a small street (rue Rabelais) in the center of town. The ancient stone walls open with iron gates to an auto court at the entrance to the fore-garden. The moment one enters the gates, the world is transformed into a tranquil Shangri-La. The Belknaps greet everyone with wine in the afternoon on the gravel terrace under the shade tree for introductions and conversation. The garden setting is tres francais.
True to the period of the house, the garden is laid out with axial symmetry. A cast iron crane fountain marks the intersection of the gravel walk to the front door, slowing one’s pace to absorb the surroundings. The walk is wide enough to accommodate the overflow of the guests’ compact cars and permit a leisurely side-by-side stroll.
Along the edges of the garden an array of flowering shrubs and trees provide seasonal interest and color. Clipped evergreens of taxus and arborvitae punctuate the layout and provide attractive forms--especially when shrouded in winter snow.
Conventional potted geraniums adorn the window ledges along the front of the house.
Gloria is a rose-lover and has selected her specimens with great care, including the French favorite: ‘Pierre de Ronsard’ (a.k.a., Eden Rose), which adorns the entry gate. Roses clamber up walls of the house and are found throughout the garden.
'Pierre de Ronsard' rose
Also in the boxwood-edged borders are rhododendrons, copper beech, lacecap hydrangeas, clematis, foxgloves, forget-me-nots, irises, peonies, senecio, violas, purple-leaf plum, oakleaf hydrangeas, euonymus, variegated aucuba, laurel, linden, maple and many others.
A delicious breakfast like no other in any B&B in France is served in the conservatory at the back of the manoir. While savoring the breakfast, which always includes exquisite pastries, fresh yogurt, an array of delectable local cheeses, different fresh fruit daily, hot chocolate (made from melted chocolate bars), the best coffee in the world and something unique each day--like Gloria’s freshly baked apples--the table discussion with fellow travelers inevitably leads to the garden.
The garden is walled in for a completely private space. Parthenocissus, wisteria and climbing roses cover all the surfaces. Perennials and flowering trees and shrubs, including oriental poppies, centaureas, tropaeolums, penstemons, dianthus, cherry trees, roses, irises, and ferns with boxwood edging seasonal annuals beds pack the space with seasonal color and fragrance.
Wood benches placed at either end of this serene space invite lingering while the soft trickle of a charming stone wall fountain makes the only sound. Everything is so beautifully presented and captivating to the palette in this breakfast setting that one wants to linger indefinitely--were it not for all the lovely chateaux waiting to be discovered.
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